The Coolest Experience Ever!

When many of my friends heard about this, they thought I was crazy and I don’t blame them. It is quite out there or up there depending on how you look at it. But nonetheless, they all concur that it is cool.

Today I would be going to the northern town of Kirkenes near the Russian boarder to go on a snowmobile safari on a frozen fjord and then sleep in a snow hotel, a hotel completely made of snow and ice, two things I’ve never done before but have wanted to do for some time. I admit, these two things are what attracted me to go on this adventure besides spying the Northern Lights. They definitely lived up to the cool factor in every sense of the word.

Since this trip has been one of my shortest, I’ve been changing hotels every night, which can be warring on the body and the soul because you don’t have as much time to absorb the surroundings. Being able to spend two nights on the cruise was a treat but at last, it was time to leave.

I checked out of my cabin at 8am and then headed up to breakfast where I met up with Angelika. I discovered she was also going on the snowmobile safari and actually went last year and loved it. There was another type of snowmobile safari she was debating about going on where they drop you off at one port and then you snowmobile through the arctic countryside to the next port. It sounded fun to her but she’s a novice and didn’t want the ship to leave her if she happened to be too slow and not make it back in time.

Angelika, a single woman in her 40’s has been on this cruise 3 times having fallen in love with the scenery. In the past, the cruise company would sit the single passengers together for dinner at a large table, which she appreciated because you get to meet people in a similar situation as you and end up making friends. She wasn’t looking to get married, but just have pleasant conversations.

On this cruise, they didn’t do that and squeezed in the singles wherever there was room, leaving many of them by themselves or with couples which proves to be awkward. At our table for dinner, she was sat with a threesome of friends. When I arrived, it was the most they had talked to Angelika on their entire trip thus far. Being a feisty German woman, she complained to the cruise management about the overall situation. On behalf of the single passengers, I’m glad she did.

I was a bit concerned about the logistics for the day, knowing I would be leaving the cruise but not knowing what to do with my luggage while on the snowmobile safari or how to get to the meeting point for the snow hotel. My directions said to take a taxi but this was a small village and a small port – taxi’s aren’t just parked out front. I got clarification from the ship’s tour director and with luggage in hand, on wheels and on my back; I proceeded to wait with the other tour goers for the ship to dock.

In front of the crowd was a cute British couple in their 80’s. With many languages being spoken where the majority of what’s being said is foreign to me, my ears tend to gravitate to English when heard so I couldn’t help but eavesdrop on their conversation. The little lady was nervously chirping away to her husband, seeming to convince herself that whatever excursion they were about to go on would be fine, even if their friends thought it was crazy or if she thought it was risky. He politely listened and wrapped his arm around her, a comforting gesture most likely practiced throughout their many years of marriage. The doors opened and with arms linked, they cautiously headed down the gangplank, she instructing him on how not to slip, an incident that I could tell was of grave concern for her that would not just put a damper on their trip but their lives.

I found my way to the vans for the snowmobile safari, gave my luggage to the driver to load and hopped in not only to see Angelika but the elderly British couple as well. They were going snowmobiling! I was so excited to see them! She brought her driver’s license just in case she wanted to drive but was hesitant. I told them we would race. ☺ They so inspired me. I hope I continue to be that adventurous and have the ability to do so when I’m their age.

When we arrived at Barents Safari and the fjord, we put on warm suits and helmets and received instructions in safety and how to drive – very easy. I was teamed up with a lady in her 20’s and since we both wanted to drive, decided to take turns.

Being last in line, I gave us some extra space between the snowmobile in front of us so I could get used to driving and play a bit with speed, as much as a slow convoy would allow. We as a group stopped in the middle of the fjord, and got to soak in the beautiful snow-covered banks of the fjord and let it sink in that we were standing on frozen water. Crazy! We learned there were three different landscapes we would encounter that day in Kirkenes – Arctic tundra, a birch tree line, and the Siberian forest. Just a few kilometers away was something that was unique to any part of the world. It was the point where three countries touched – Norway, Finland, and Russia. What makes it unique is that they each have a different time zone, which makes New Year’s fun because they get to celebrate three times!

We got back on our snowmobiles and those who wanted to go faster were instructed to get to the front of the line which we made a beeline for. We were booking it! Faster and faster we went until all of a sudden we started to slow down to a complete stop. The snowmobile died! Other snowmobiles came whizzing and puttering by as we tried to get it to start but nothing. Then there was silence on the fjord and us stranded in the middle of it. Thankfully, the other instructor and the captain of the ship who was also on our tour came to our aid. They tried to get it to start but nothing. We each split up and left the dead snowmobile, she going with the captain and I going with the mildly cheeky instructor who let me drive.

We were off again going faster and faster but the instructor slowed me down, telling me to keep it between 40 – 60 km/hr since we had to be last to make sure no one from the tour was left behind. This meant when I caught up to the ‘putterers’, I had to slow down even more - bummer.

On our second stop, I couldn’t help but stare in awe at the beauty surrounding me. The soft sunlight illuminated the kilometer of frozen water we were standing on, making the tree-lined banks visually pop in contrast. Time seemed to freeze along with the surroundings as my soul tried to savor these moments before we headed back.

A perk about being with the instructor was that I got to drive again but we again needed to be last. On our way back, we stopped at the dead snowmobile so the instructor could try to get it to start but after several attempts, decided to leave it for later.

Since the group was far ahead of us, I could go faster to catch up, still keeping in the 40-60 km/hr range, but when the captain and my former partner whizzed by, the throw down began. The instructor took control from behind, put his hands on mine, squeezed the accelerator, and we were off - 70, 80, 90, 100, 120 km/ hr (approx. 75 mph) we went as I hunkered down and hung on for the ride of my life as trees and snow became a blur. A permanent smile affixed itself on my face partially due to the speed and the adrenaline rush it was creating which only let exclamations of “woo hoo’s” and “yeah’s” escape my lips. It was more than I had hoped for and definitely was the coolest ride of my life.

We caught up to the group and took a break. This time, we headed back first so the instructor could get a fire started in the Lavo for the group. I assumed the passenger seat, got my camera out and was going to take pictures of the scenery. Plans changed as soon as we started when we began to book it. My hands affixed themselves firmly to the side handles as we zoomed through virgin snow; through trees and brush; and down and around hills much like I’ve done on sand in a dune buggy, places my tour mates did not get to go. Having my snowmobile die was a bummer but it was well worth it!

We ended our time together by having tea and dried reindeer meat in a warm lavo where we learned more about the Sami people. Not so long ago, country lines were drawn for this area where a good majority of Sami people live. When given the choice to be part of Norway or Russia, many of them chose to be affiliated with Russia, leaving only 25 Sami families in the Kirkenes area of Norway.

In seeing a picture of the people in the Sami parliament, I was intrigued to discover they are white. When I think of indigenous people, I automatically think of dark skin but their fair skin makes sense due to the area their people come from with there only being sun 6 months of the year. It was a stereotype I have that I became aware of.

We shed our extra layers and boarded the bus. The tour guide graciously dropped me off at the Rica Hotel Kirkenes, the meeting spot for the snow hotel later that evening. When I pulled on the door and discovered it was locked, I thought, “This is not good.” A note was affixed on it saying it was closed for Easter. Slight panic started to set in at the realization that my directions were wrong. I quickly looked back at the tour guide who thankfully hadn’t driven off yet. I walked back, luggage in tow and boarded the van again. He took me to the other hotel, the Rica Hotel Arctic where thankfully there were other snow hotel goers.

With a few hours to kill, I walked around the little town and did it. I fell, big time on my right side. I didn’t even see it coming, which was the problem. I was looking around and not down. The ice finally got me. I tried to play it off but the snow all over my butt and side was a dead giveaway. Thankfully not many people were out and about.

I did see something though that was new to me – a kick sledge that is basically a chair with a basket on skis used for getting around. I saw townspeople using them and played around on one parked outside a grocery store. They’re pretty fun and make sense to use with snow covered streets and sidewalks.

I headed back to the hotel where I relaxed and watched the snow fall in huge, soft, silent flakes before we were picked up for the snow hotel.

There were about 11 of us total bound for the snow hotel – two families, a couple, and I. Twilight was setting in turning the sky a fantastic navy blue, the almost full moon glowing over the dozens of snow mounds and burrows which made up the snow hotel. It reminded me much of what a Hobbit hotel would like in Lord of the Rings if it were covered in snow.

We walked through the meter thick wall of the snow cave entrance to the main reception area where an ice bar, ice chairs covered with reindeer hides, lounges, tables and different sculptures greeted us. There were two halls that housed a total of 20 rooms, each one individually decorated by artists with a different theme. We explored each room and got to choose which one we wanted for the night, a difficult choice. I chose what I call the “Heart Room” which had hearts carved into the snow walls. The reason I chose the room was because of the bed, which was an ice carving in the shape of a boat. It was a boat bed! Lights of different colors illuminated each room adding character to the snow-white canvas. Reindeer hides acted as carpets and ice blocks surrounded the sides of actual mattresses to sleep on in thermal sleeping bags. Curtains acted as doors to each room.

Once we chose our rooms and were give instructions on how to sleep safely in cold weather, we were given a tour of the facility including the lavo where meals would be held and the 24-hour warm room where the restrooms, hot beverages and the sauna were housed. Also on the grounds was a reindeer park where we could pet and feed the reindeer and husky dogs for dogsled rides (but we’ve already completed that experience).

Entering and exiting warm rooms takes work because you have de-layer and layer every time, which can be a workout. I was thankful to de-layer though for dinner because after today’s excitement on the fjord, I was hungry! I sat with a family and a couple from France, the couple recently having moved to Norway due to work. We all attempted to speak to each other while we waited for dinner, which was fish, veggies, and huge baked potatoes being cooked over the roaring fire in the middle of the lavo. For our appetizer, we got to finish cooking the Norwegian version of the hot dog which was a reindeer sausage we roasted over the fire then wrapped in a tortilla-like bread made out of potatoes. Everything was delicious! Dessert was fitting for the occasion of being in a snow hotel – ice cream with fresh berries.

After dinner we were free to roam which spurred me to get my tripod and camera to do some Northern Lights hunting. Tonight the Aurora Borealis forecast said it would be the biggest showing of the week and since it was a clear night, I could only hope. I wandered about, taking pictures of the nightscape gorgeously illuminated by the almost full moon. Yes, I said moon, which meant no Northern Lights visibility. I was sad as this was my last night in Northern Lights territory but was also grateful that God allowed me to see them earlier in my trip and get a couple of good photos. It’s made me cherish those photos and that experience even more.

Even though there were other people staying in the snow hotel, I didn’t see or hear them the rest of the night. I roamed through the hotel as if I was the only one there. The silence that filled the hotel was broken only by the crunch of my footsteps on the snow floor and the sight and sound of my shallow breath hitting the cold air. I proceeded to take pictures of the hotel and my room like a mad woman, running about cautiously with my headlight on, using the tripod with my camera to take timed photos of myself. If anyone were to have seen me, it would have been a sight – that crazy American!

Since it was getting late and I would be loosing an hour due to Norway’s daylight savings time, I stripped to my long underwear, three pairs of wool socks, gloves, and hat and hopped into the mummy sleeping bag with only my face peeking out which I proceeded to burrow. The temperature inside the hotel was -4 to -7 degrees C but inside the sleeping bag I was quite comfortable. It was definitely a cool end to a day filled with the coolest experiences ever.